The Mycophile's Lion's Mane Grow Kit
We are so excited you have chosen to purchase The Mycophile's Lion's Mane Grow Kit! Please follow the instructions below for best results.
If you have any questions or issues, please reach out to us via email at email@example.com
Prepare the Grow Kit
Items Needed to Start
Sharp Razor Type Utility Knife
To cut x's into the bag.
To hold down extra material.
The basic premise of all the grow kits is that they need to be kept humid and given fresh air fairly regularly. Have your fruiting location picked out already? Read instructions below for requirements. D
Items Needed for Ongoing Care
Hand sprayer to keep up the environments humidity.
Distilled or well water preferred.
Mushrooms Inhale O2 and Exhale CO2. Fresh air is important.
1 - Get a Sharp Knife
Cut 2 x’s on one, or both, of the long sides of you sawdust block, within an inch of the top of the sawdust, so your mushroom can form on the side of the bag, without resting on the surface that the bag/block is resting on. The more openings, the more mushrooms your block will produce. One single X will result in a kit that fruits more times, with only one mushroom per fruiting.
2 - Get A Roll of Duct Tape
Now cut a small slit in one top corner of the bag. Squeeze as much air out of the bag as possible, don’t worry about bruising the sawdust block a little, they’re tough and we don’t want air pockets in the bag. With the air squeezed out tape over the slit in the bag with duct tape.
3 - Roll Down the Top
Roll down the top of the bag in a way that keeps the taped opening away from the block as much as possible. Your lion’s mane will want to fruit out of wherever it senses oxygen. By removing the air and taping over the top slit you used to let the air out, we hope to restrict fruiting to the X’s you cut in the side of the block.
4 - Find a Nice Home
Place your kit somewhere humid. Basements are a good option, and in warmer months, shady outdoor areas work well for Lion’s Mane.
For most indoor climates, you will need a fruiting chamber. This can be a room with a humidifier, a storage tote, aquarium, clear plastic bag, cardboard box with a saran wrap lid. Any container that will comfortably hold the bag and allow in some light will work.
Now all you need is to provide fresh air and humidity 2-4 times per day. Simply open your chamber and mist the walls, air, and kit with non-chlorinated water, well water and distilled water work best.
Once small growths form at the x’s, about a week in, stop misting those areas directly. You still need to mist regularly and want your chamber to have some visible mist or condensation in it at all times. But you should not directly mist mushrooms, as it invites mold and bacterial growth, as well as bruising.
Whenever you open your chamber to mist, you should also fan our the chamber. You can use a fan, air purifier, or a magazine and your hands. But getting air exchange is important and hand-fanning is not terribly effective. A small fan or purifier is preferred.
Watch Them Grow!
Your formations will grow quickly and may start out pink before becoming white, this is temperature dependent. After 4-7 days of
If you see yellowing on your mushroom, increase the humidity. If your mushroom is forming a drooping “neck” or “stem” and not a “ball” or “
pom-pom” increase your air exchange.
At harvest, just twist your mushroom off the kit and trim back any bits protruding from the bag. Continue as usual and roughly a week later a new mushroom will begin to form. This may happen up to 6+ times.
If mold or mildew forms inside the bag, but not near an opening, just continue as usual. This is not a concern unless it is clearly rapidly spreading, or forming near the fruit/opening. If mold starts to cover more than 5% of the block simply move it to a shady spot outside, it’s likely it will become healthier and continue to fruit during rainy periods.
If molds form near a fruit opening, just cover it with tape and cut a new one. Sometimes this may be necessary to encourage new fruitings after the 3rd or 4th flush anyway.